Banaras: A City That Calls You Back

The City That Never Lets You Go

Banaras, the city that pulls you in all possible ways. No matter where I go or which phase of life I'm in, I somehow always find myself returning to Banaras. It's as if the city calls you, its streets whisper your name, the eateries draw you in. And then there are the people. Banarasis are among the most stress-free, fun-loving, and witty people you'll ever meet. They always have a story to tell, a tale to share, and an unmatched flair for wordplay. Once, I booked a boat ride and asked the price, trying to bargain a little. The boat owner replied, "1500 mein hi biwi bhi aur saali bhi?" Oh, such wittinies, you just surrender, you can't bargain anymore.

Start From the Ghats

To experience Banaras, you can begin from anywhere, any place, any day, any time. It doesn't matter whether you arrive by flight, train, or bus. In a way, everyone carries a bit of Banaras within themselves. The first thing you should do upon reaching is not check into your hotel or look for a place to stay. Instead, head straight to a ghat, any ghat, whichever is closest to you. Don't worry about accommodation; hotels will find you, Banaras will find you, Banaras will take care of you. Don't think about being tired, or needing rest or time to freshen up. Just go to the ghats.

You'll see all kinds of people. Some taking dips in the Ganga, some sitting quietly in introspection, some trying to figure out their lives, and some simply living and enjoying the moment. Observe them all. You might notice a little girl balancing and walking on a rope. At the famous ghats like Dashashwamedh and Assi, you'll witness the grandeur of the Ganga Aarti. But at the smaller, quieter ghats nearby, you may find a lone pujari performing the aarti with a single diya, no grandeur, just devotion. You'll come across artists painting canvases and portraits. You can pick up hand-painted postcards and bookmarks as souvenirs. There are plenty of snack stalls too, my personal favorites are masala amrood (sliced guava tossed in mustard sauce), and Nimboo Chai. The city may remain the same, but the ghats feel different every day. You'll see life in all its forms here, people floating diyas and flowers in the river with hope in their hearts, and at the same time, funeral pyres at Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats, where bodies return to ashes.

Sunrise Boating - A Must Do

Must do thing that I'll say in Banaras is sunrise time boating, and the hand paddle boat, not the motorized one. Start from Assi Ghat and glide along the river past Manikarnika, and even beyond if you can. The calm of the morning, with the city slowly waking up, is something you won't forget. If you're visiting in winter, you'll also spot many migratory birds. You can feed them grains, and they'll gently pick them right from your hands. At the end of your boat ride, you can visit the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Other temples that you can visit are Kal Bhairav temple, Tulsi Manas Mandir, and Sankatmochan Mandir.

Foooood

Now coming to the most important part, Foooood. Let's start with breakfast, you should have Puri-Sabji-Jalebi, that's the authentic local combo. It's something you'll typically find only in the Purvanchal and Bihar region. You can also try dahi jalebi. Don't overthink where to go, just walk into any random sweets or snack shop and you'll get the real taste of Banaras. Personally, I'm not a big fan of places that are viral on Instagram. The charm of Banaras lies in its ordinary spots; almost any small shop will serve you something memorable. Talking about lassi, my all-time favorite is Pahalwan Lassi on Ravindrapuri Road, near Ravidas Gate. You'll find two Pahalwan Lassi shops right opposite each other, both are equally good. The last time I visited, I also tried lassi at Green Lassi near Assi Chauraha, and that has now become a personal favorite too. Blue Lassi is quite popular on Instagram, but honestly, it doesn't quite live up to the hype. You'll also find malaiyo at most sweet and lassi shops, but it's a winter specialty. If you're lucky, you might still get it in early March. And when it comes to chaat, just stop by any roadside stall—you really can't go wrong there.

Bun Makkhan and the Sweets of Banaras

When we talk about Banaras, we often limit it to ghats, lassi, malaiyo, and tamatar chaat. But in all of this, bun makkhan and the sweets of Banaras are often overlooked. I can confidently say that Banaras has some of the best sweets in India. If you have a sweet tooth, you must try local Banarasi delicacies like launglata, malpua, imarti, kala jamun (not gulab jamun), and chhena ka dahi bada. Coming to Bun Makkhan and Bread-toast, well I have been to Niloufer's in Hyderabad, Irani Cafes in Mumbai and Pune, nothing beats the bun makkhan and chai in Banaras. The bread is not toasted in electric grill, but on wooden coal-stoves, directly on the flame. That smokey taste, that crispiness, umhm, unmatched. I'd recommend heading early in the morning to Lanka Chauraha (near BHU Gate) and definitely trying bread toast with chai.

Just Sit and Relax

All of this might sound overwhelming, but you don't have to do everything. Do nothing. Just sit on the ghats and relax. You can spend your entire trip right there, and it would still feel complete. At night, when the crowds have dispersed, start from one ghat, Assi or Dashashwamedh, and walk all the way to the other. You can do the same walk early in the morning too. This walk, in itself, is a complete Banaras experience. Along the way, you'll see everything, life unfolding in its raw, unfiltered form.

And if you still have time, you can visit Sarnath and explore the BHU campus, watching students hang around, adding another layer to the city's character.